Guide Shirt # 1: How to wear a shirt

Shirts, this is probably what you wear 70% of the time if you are working.
It is a mainstay of your wardrobe is supposed to combine seamlessly with ties, jackets, sweaters and cardigans.

But you’re not always happy with the result and you feel that something is wrong in relation to these photo lookbook that seem adjusted to the millimeter.

To help you make the point and to buy better defining your needs, we will decrypt each of the elements that make up a shirt.
So you can methodically identify what will or not your current folders and what to watch for in your future purchases.

We will only be interested in the shirts in a formal setting: this is above the error forgive the least.

The neck

The cervix is primarily a story of morphology. Two simple criteria to be taken into account:

-The width and length of your face, the neck is considered a framework that will balance the proportions of your face.

While it is particularly wide and round, it will choose a long neck at points, and with a narrow fastener. The flaps should be as broad to be proportionate.



If it is long, so it will be more of a short neck with a rather wide opening.


-The length of your neck: Again pure logic, the cervix must be pretty much on long necks, and rather low on the other.


Two types of collars are available for the formal (obviously it takes a rigid collar, those which can be worn without tie without sagging).

The French col: This is the collar base to the rather narrow and long tails. It is neutral and very versatile, can be worn with or without a tie and easily combines with most lapel.

The narrow opening of such favors round neck and wide faces.


Italian collar (also called cutaway collar): It is generally more open and available in different width. It is traditionally worn with a tie and a particularly wide to fill out the node.

The italian collar shirts are however more and more adopted as a casual context, worn without ties.
They are particularly suitable for thin people because they rajoutent horizontality silhouette.

They finally agreed to rather long faces.


Other collar:

- Round neck: also called cervical club because it was in any exclusive early Eton students. This is a very valuable collar and a little feminine (which is a bit like the Peter Pan collar). A little off the office.


- English collar: it is long and rises high enough. It is perfect for a little round and wide faces with a long neck.
At the time of collar detachable, it was worn with a neck strap to keep it. The typical style of pimps Boardwalk Empire.


- A button down collar, also called American col: it is introduced in 1896 by brothers Brook inspired sports shirts worn by polo players. Too casual to be worn to the office.


- The mandarin collar or mandarin collar: it is simply a right neck without flaps




Different types of cuffs are distinguished

Buttoned: This is the most common, there are version 1 or 2 buttons. The quality shirts have another button above the handle so that it fits better to the shape of the arm once the sleeves rolled up.


Neapolitan: they are two-button cuffs that fold over themselves, with rounded edges to avoid drooling over the sleeve of the veste.C is an intermediary between ordinary cuffs buttoned cuffs and dressed more: we sees through against very rarely ready to wear.


Musketeers are found on business and upscale shirts. They are ultra formal and less suitable for small budgets because of cufflinks to buy. A detail more picky about which it is easy to s wrong.



Many variations are made around the base material: cotton.
The cotton poplin: it comes from Avignon and it is the most used. It alternates between a wire and a heavy chain over the end frame to mix flexibility and consistency. They say she is double twisted when employing a double thread chain and a double wire frame. This technique requires son longer and therefore stronger cotton (which has less defects on a greater length).
It is a versatile material that can be worn all year round.
Oxford is a little more coarse weave that uses a thicker than poplin white colored chain and weft.
Twill: It brings out the colors of plain shirts. The insulating material is more due to a tighter weave diagonal: practical in winter but in summer to avoid. Especially double twill twined.
The flannel cotton: a lightweight weave that uses rather thin son rather summery.


Other materials are intended for more casual shirts, they are addressed in another article.


White: color overvalued?

Visualizing the formal shirt par excellence, it is probably white you see. And yet it is far from being the color most suited to many skin tones, especially the lighter that will look even paler.

Other faults are to be noted: it is often perceived as too formal, and therefore unsuitable for more casual environments. Similarly, they are sick with casual dressing (avoid especially atrocious combo cheap faded jeans and white shirt) and the textures a bit rough tweed style or chunky knit.

They get dirty easily and are difficult to clean.

Finally, white is far from being a neutral color that if we can combine everything and blends easily with yellow, purple or burgundy that blend better with blue
Consider the blue

Blue, according to its tone, is a color that flatters most skin tones: as and when fittings, you will find the exact shade of blue that highlights your face, without divert attention.

Blue is increasingly available in more materials: linen and cotton voile for the summer, Chambray for more casual executives and oxford or twill for winter.

In short, most men often tend to choose white by default, while in 90% of the blue is more appropriate, especially if it does not suit
Did: how to know if the shirt is your measurements?

Two schools of thought meet.

First, those who wear their shirt under a suit, jacket or sweater: they reveal cuffs, collar and a little body of the shirt. They therefore consider that we should monitor these three elements and an approximate fit will be hidden by the upper layers

The second school has a strict vision of him: his defenders keep in mind that in hot countries, and during the hot season it is difficult to make anything over a shirt and the slightest mistake will be immediately apparent.
The other argument is also an ill-fitting cut can quickly make unwanted creases on the front of the shirt jacket will not hide.

We will therefore rely on this second school which seems more proactive and study the main things to check: collar, cuffs, chest and waist, length and armhole.
The neck

Must be able to fit two fingers with the neck fully closed. And do not forget that a new shirt necessarily shrinks after a few washes: so expect about one centimeter margin.


The wrists should be tight enough that the handle remains at the base of the thumb, without slipping down when you raise your arms.

For those who wear huge watches, the handle is slightly enlarged and ensures that it is right to length it covers not too hand.

Waist and chest

For the size, think especially chest for your shopping on the internet and if you have a little belly, waist.

Allow at least 2-3 cm apart as necessarily shrink your shirt with the first few washes.

Otherwise try to shop then take action: you should not have power buttons and no extra fabric at the hips.

The length

You need to raise your arms without the shirt out of your pants. In the event you also want to wear outside the pants, it must not be more than 10 cm. Here’s an idea:


The armhole

The armhole is the armhole at the shoulder: is it low, wide or narrow and tall?

In ready to wear in France, it is unfortunately often wide and low: when trying this manifests through excess fabric under the armpits.

When you wear your clothes near the body, it is most narrow and high time to better adapt to the shape of your arms. And this is what you will find on jackets and sweaters neatly cut.

Be vigilant to avoid the combination that kills (comfort): a shirt with large armholes and a jacket with a narrow armhole.

Set a budget: How to invest?

A shirt is not synonymous with longevity: it is a cotton garment that is worn close to the body to be washed at least once every three ports.
Regardless of its quality, cotton finish inevitably degrade by progressively washes: which brings life expectancy up to 3 years at a rate of 1 or 2 ports per week.

This is not necessarily a good idea to spend more than 100 euros on a shirt knowing that jacket or wool coat are much more durable investments that are not directly in contact with skin (well, c ‘YMMV) and whose material needs to be washed less often because of its hydrophobic properties (it gets wet a lot less).

Invest in a large quarter of what you would be willing to pay for a nice jacket or coat shirt.

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ZI and WJ – co-founder Natty Custom Dress Shirts.

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